|
Other Americans,
apparently trying to sound world-wise, like to say that Highway
1 is just like an American highway. That’s not the case either;
in fact, it makes all but the very worst of American highways
look like the Autobahn. Compared to what we gringos are
accustomed to, it’s narrow, winding, unpredictable, poorly
marked and downright dangerous.
Nonetheless, with a little restraint and common sense, you can
travel Highway 1 in relative safety. The first thing to keep in
mind is that most of the highway is extremely narrow by American
standards and often lacks any shoulders at all. Instead, in many
areas, you’ll find a two-foot drop off the blacktop on either
side of the road. Keep your eyes on the road - not on the
stereo, the CB or your sandwich. There’s plenty of room for any
street-legal vehicle; there’s just not much room for error. This
is especially true if you’re towing a trailer. If you drop a
trailer tire off the blacktop in the wrong spot, you could be in
big trouble.
Remember too that you can’t depend on signs and markings along
Highway 1 the way you can in America. Sometimes a slight curve
will be marked with twenty blaring yellow and black arrow
markers, while a sudden fall-away hairpin may not be marked at
all. Be prepared for anything at any time and depend on your own
eyes, not the road signs.
Don’t believe what the center line tells you either. Most of it
is composed of a double yellow line, and it should be.
Sometimes, though, the double yellow will continue down ten
miles of perfectly straight, flat road ideal for passing. In
other places, a dotted center line will lead right up to a blind
curve or hilltop. Again, just use your eyes and your common
sense.
The inconsistency of the center line has led to a curious Baja
custom. Slow vehicles will often use their left turn signals to
indicate to cars behind them that it’s safe to pass. Usually it
is, but don’t take the left turn signal as gospel; sometimes the
signaling vehicle can’t see any more than you can, and sometimes
that left turn signal is really signaling a left turn.
The speed limit on most of Highway 1 is right around 35 miles
per hour. This is yet another instance in which common sense
should come first. In certain places, 35 is way too fast; in
others you can drive 60 without taking an unnecessary risk.
Always err on the side of caution, though, as you never know
when you’re going to have to stop in a hurry for a cow in the
road, a washout, an accident, a slow-moving vehicle, a sudden
curve or any number of other things.
The customary warning that you should never drive Highway 1 at
night is a reasonable one. Due to the lack of dependable warning
signs, reflective markers and lights, it’s not easy to see even
the road itself, let alone cows, etc., which may be in the
middle of it. If you have to do it, do it slowly and carefully
and don’t keep driving if you get sleepy.
There are enough gas stations along Highway 1 that you shouldn’t
need to carry extra fuel. It’s not uncommon, though, for a
station to simply run out of fuel, so you should keep your tank
as full as possible in case the next station is out. Carrying an
extra five or 10 gallons doesn’t hurt either. You will almost
certainly get overcharged for your fuel, but remember that it’s
not just because you’re a gringo - locals get overcharged too.
Auto shops in Baja don’t much resemble your local Jiffy Lube.
They’re often dilapidated tin shacks with dirt floors and a few
greasy tools hanging from the walls. Don’t despair; Mexican
mechanics, for the most part, are very, very good at what they
do, which is getting vehicles back on the road on way or
another. It may not be pretty, but they will almost always find
a way to at least temporarily fix virtually anything that goes
wrong.
Regardless, you should prepare your vehicle as completely as you
can. Make sure everything - tires, belts, hoses, etc. - is in
good working condition and carry an extra one of everything you
can think of - including but not limited to fuses, fluids, oil,
filters, engine parts and dollars. Also carry emergency
equipment - flares, reflectors, jumper cables, fire
extinguisher, tow rope, etc. In many areas, there’s no place to
get a disabled vehicle off the road, and placing a few flares a
quarter-mile back up the road could save your life and/or
someone else’s.
As for the police, some of them are crooked and will give you
tickets just because they can. You can either play the game, pay
them on the spot and go on your way, or you can stand up for
yourself and ask to be taken to the station to pay your fine
there. Sometimes the latter will save you some money; sometime
it will just take an extra couple of hours. The truth, though,
is that the “corrupt Mexican policeman” stereotype is for the
most part just that - a stereotype. The vast majority of the
police force won’t bother you.
The military checkpoints scattered along the highway are only
unnerving the first few times you pass through them. These
soldiers are looking for drugs or guns, and they may make a
cursory search of your vehicle. Almost universally, though,
they’re polite and business-like. It probably goes without
saying that you shouldn’t take guns or drugs to Baja.
Another government entity, the Angeles Verdes (Green
Angels) may turn out to be the best thing that’s ever
happened to you. They drive green pickups loaded with tools,
parts, fuel and water up and down the highway looking for
motorists that need help. It’s not a free service, but if
you break down in the middle of the Vizca'no Desert on a
Tuesday afternoon in August, you’ll be more than happy to
pay whatever they ask, which isn’t much. Incidentally, you
should always carry a few gallons of drinking water, as it
may be hours before a Green Angel, or anyone else, shows up.
It should be said here that despite all its hazards,
Highway 1 is one of the world’s greatest drives. The
scenery is consistently spectacular; the roadside
restaurants are cheap, friendly and delicious; there’s a
wonderful willingness on the part of almost everyone on the
road to help out other drivers; and Baja’s rich history and
otherworldly flora and geology are reason enough in
themselves to make the trip.

It takes about two to three days to drive from Tijuana to Cabo,
so if you’re going any further than L.A. Bay, you’ll probably
want to spend at least one day along the road. RV and “dry”
camping is available in many places and ranges from fancy,
full-hookup sites to pitching a tent in absolute solitude at the
end of a side road.
For those not equipped to camp, many hotels are available along
the way. Like camping accommodations, these range from the most
basic rooms to luxurious suites. Those wanting to travel in a
bit of luxury should consider the “Baja Travel Pass” offered by
the government-owned La Pinta Hotels chain. The Travel Pass
costs about $140.00 per person and includes four nights in La
Pinta hotels, four breakfasts, four margaritas, coupons for food
and beverages and a 50-percent discount on a future stay at the
La Pinta Ensenada. In addition to Ensenada, La Pinta operates
top-flight hotels in San Quint'n, Catavi'a, Guerrero Negro, San
Ignacio and Loreto.

 |